Thursday, July 23, 2009

African Birthday

Today is what those of you in the States commonly refer to as my “Golden Birthday.” I turn 23 on the 23rd of July, and what a place to do so! I think I’ll celebrate by eating the whole bag of Snickers that my mom sent me, and perhaps I’ll go out with the other trainees for a cold Brakina after class.

Site visit was pretty great. Thyou (pronounced “tee-oo”) is kind of in the middle of nowhere—not unlike Urbana-Champaign (though I wont be expecting a snow day this January). It’s a small town, surrounded by smaller villages. Students from these villages will come to my school to learn important things. The school is right out the door from my house, where I have a nice courtyard, room for a small garden, a kitchen, bedroom, living room, and hole to poop in. Since I’m taking over for a volunteer who is leaving in August, I’ll be inheriting a few things, such as a hammock, a stove, a desk, a car battery to power my desk light, and perhaps a neighbor child who likes to hang out in my courtyard. I’m weighing whether or not I want to get a pet (other than the kid). Having a dog is not unheard of here, though when my two years is up, I wouldn’t know who to give him/her to. We’ll see.

From Thyou, the closest town with internet access looks to be Koudougou. I can bike the topographically flat 40km between them in less than two hours, or catch a bush taxi (a U-Haul sized bus) into town for pretty cheap. I’d have to devote the day downtown. Looks like life won’t be much different from living 50 miles outside of Chicago. There are a couple volunteers living in town, with whom I could stay overnight if I find the ride back some evening to be unappealing.

Thyou’s got a convenience store, gas station, and a few shops where I’ll be able to get any necessities. The market in my town is allegedly preferable to that of Koudougou, so I suppose I’ll be learning how to cook (am I a catch, or what?). The volunteer I’m replacing is convinced that Thyou makes the best bread of anywhere in Burkina Faso. I will test this theory. I’ll spend the next few weeks brainstorming how I’ll decorate and modify my first bachelor pad. Anyone interested in flying out to paint a mural with me is more than welcome.

Model School starts this week! Today I sat in on a math class taught by a Burkinabe teacher. I had trouble staying awake. It seems some dilemmas are international. I’ll start teaching next monday. For the first two weeks, I’ve happily chosen to teach physics—a somehow unpopular subject among the other trainees. Later, I’ll probably switch to Biology, and sit in on some math classes, as I’ll likely be asked to teach these classes in Thyou. With this new phase in training, many of us education volunteers feel a refreshing sense of purpose…

French is going well. Last week, I tested in at the level required for teaching volunteers. This means I can spend the rest of training over-achieving. I’ll continue studying French, and I’ll also have weekly sessions of Moore—the local language spoken in Thyou. I find that in French, I can understand pretty much everything when listening to someone in person (as opposed to on television or radio), but I need still the vocabulary and colloquialisms necessary for non-robotic responses. Petit à petit.

What more to say? After site visit, we got to stay at the volunteer house in the capital (Ouagadougou). It was like vacation. I got to have pizza, ice cream, tacos, hamburgers, draught beer, bacon, ice cream, waffles, ice cream, onion rings, banana bread, ice cream, legitimately brewed (not instant) coffee, and ice cream. Don’t judge me. We all have vices. While incredible, these delicacies cost a pretty penny. And while a penny is worth more here than in the States, volunteers aren’t paid like diplomats. Ouaga is only about an hour or so from Thyou—there’s a bush taxi that goes direct 6 days a week. Not a raw deal.

The rest of training will be pretty nine-to-five. I’ll be teaching and learning language. Beyond that, occasional drinks with other trainees, a little bit of exercise, occasional nutritional indulgences, and trying to get a tan without sweating cannonballs. My host parents’ house feels like home (I was relieved to return after site visit). Now I’ve accumulated two weeks worth of laundry, which I’ll have the pleasure of washing by hand this Sunday. The felonies I’d commit for a laundromat…

In the next episode of “They Don’t Play Hockey In Burkina Faso,” Jon tells news about how his future students fare, and gives tips for keeping the class brat in line.

Miss you like ice cream, birthday cake, Chinese food, and live rock’n’roll.

-J

Saturday, July 11, 2009

Site Announcement!

Life is good. We received our site placements! At the end of August 2009, I will finish training and leave Ouahigouya to officially live and teach for two years in THYOU, Burkina Faso. 40 km South of the regional capital, Koudougou (less than two hours via bike, and quick by bush taxi), it’s cozily located in the African savannah, and only 13 km from Sabou—a small tourist trap famous for its rampant crocodiles. Thyou is plentifully populated by trees and vegetable gardens—so I’m looking forward to the scenery.

In Thyou, I’ll be teaching at a school of 450 students and 9 teachers. For now, I don’t know exactly what subject. Likely Physics/Chemistry and Math, or maybe Biology/Earth Science. However, I will know next week, when all of us teaching volunteers get to visit our sites! I’ll speak with my future colleagues, get to know the town, hang out with the volunteer I’m replacing, and meet some of my neighbors. Then, we get to spend the weekend in the capital, where Peace Corps Burkina will be feeding us Mexican food. (We’ve been drooling about it for about a month.)

Still trucking with the French. We’ve reached a checkpoint in the language training, and after I get back from my site visit, I’ll start learning some Moore in addition to the French. Model school starts in two weeks—that’s where I’ll start legitimately teaching real things to real students in real French. Wow. I gave a 15 minute lesson yesterday to a few sample students. They answered my questions correctly and kept up with my accent—so I suppose my French isn’t half bad.
The trainees are a tight group. We keep hearing from Ouagadougou how impressed the country desk is with us (nobody’s left yet!), and all the current volunteers are psyched to know their future neighbors. We’re all just a little sad that we’ll have to split up in August, when we go to our sites permanently.

I went to a Burkinabe film called Le Fauteuil (“The Deskchair”) yesterday, with my host parents. It didn’t start till later in the evening, since the theatre is outside and films are best viewed in the dark. Consequently, I found myself dozing off a little. I managed to follow the basic plot, still. Our protagonist is a Burkinabe woman, who is looking for a job. She interviews with a few companies, all run by men, all of whom are looking for a little more than work ethic out of a female employee. She manages to get a job, and quickly usurps the Chair of her company (hence the title). Of course, now all the men are angry and try to foil her, but she leads the company to success despite this, and wins over some of the more amiable male characters in the process. I’ve decided that this film is very forward-thinking and refreshing, considering the views on women’s rights in West Africa, as well as Peace Corps involvement in girl’s empowerment. I’m certain that one could pick these plot points out regardless of language, so don’t jump the gun and get all impressed with me. A good night, nonetheless.

Tonight, a few other teaching volunteers and I are heading out to the village of Bagoya (a short bike ride), to visit with the Girls Education/Empowerment volunteers in our training class. I’ve strapped my tent and sleeping bag to my bike—a month in and I’m finally going to give roughing it a shot. Before I head out, I’ll stop to grab dinner. I’ve heard a lot about a guy on the way there who grills up and sells “chicken in a bag” as the volunteers call it. (Everything here comes in little black grocery bags. These bags function as everything from gift wrap to the packaging for greasy, dripping, onion-and-garlic-covered chicken.) This carnivore is psyched.

Most of the male volunteers here have lost a bit of weight, and I’m no exception, but we’ve been able to find some relatively reliable sources of fatty foods and beer. I have yet to get over my craving for a Cajun chicken sandwich and an irrational amount of chips and salsa from Chili’s, though. The current volunteers (by which I mean non-trainees) all say we gain it back once we get to site, where we’re able to cook for ourselves. My town-to-be is also a prime site for a wide variety of veggies, and being close to Koudougou will give me plenty of opportunity to venture in town for the occasional belly-busting splurge.

That’s all I’ve got for now! Next up, reflection on my visit to Thyou. We’ve been told to limit our picture taking (it’s not vacation and we aren’t tourists—and we certainly don’t want our colleagues or neighbors to think we are), but have patience. I’ll have two years to capture all the shots I could ever want. Crocodiles and everything.

Last but not least, WANT LIST (stuff that would be useful to me if you’re worrying and feel you need to send something):
-Letters!
-candy (craving starburst), other snacks
-pictures/post cards of stuff I can show people from America/Chicago
-powdered drink mix
-Purell, and liquid hand soap
-cheese if it will keep
-books in English

As before, you may send letters and packages to:

Jonathan M. Bressler, PCT
S/c Corps de la Paix
01 B.P. 6031
Ouagadougou 01, Burkina Faso

Miss you all,

Jon